Wednesday

Trousers #1

I really enjoyed making these trousers, They where the first pair i had ever made, so they are not as 'trouser-like' as they could have been.

I took influence from the Skirt I had made in the first week, with the High-Low staggered hem and the exposed zip (to an extent) 


Used my Favorite style of fastening, The exposed Zip, but in a much more minimal and clean way.  



To Make them, I cut the fabric on the cross grain, using only a tracing of the crotch/inside leg seam. so the trousers, one may say are half draped, half pattern cut.

this enabled me to get the full circle skirt effect on each Leg.

This i found particularly enjoyable as there was a sense of experimentation/ not knowing the outcome...

The main Difficulty came In Hemming...

I didn't want to do a plain Roll Hem...I wanted to do a hem and stitch by hand to add weight and an almost attempt at Couture sewing. Couture techniques are very interesting to me.. and i constantly use 'Couture Sewing Techniques' by Claire B.Shaffer as a reference.

The book suggested that I should ease the hem with heat and steam, but i think this didn't work so well due to the fact the fabric was a Linen ? so i just stitched it flat where I could and made the occasional tuck where needed to remove excess fabric.


Small Tucks 





Dress #1

This week I made a dress out of a transparent Plastic/PVC, the transparency was initially problematic as you couldn't see the fabric...I lost it on numerous occasions.

The nature of the composition of the fabric meant that when stitched, it broke and this happened as he dress was worn and handled.

I tried to work with the fabric to create something with shape, which i thought the fabric was well suited too...I found out that whilst it held its shape well, it did damage easily.

Another issue I had was that it stuck together quite allot meaning it was not easily Maneuverable.  

I think it would be suited to much simpler shapes to give great impact. shapes that required little seaming and excessive handling.







I added some Black marker drawing to add detail and interest...

Overall, I think the fabric is quite a daring choice. Some may argue that a fabric such as this is 'radical' or 'provoking' in the style of Vivienne Westwood in her early days, or perhaps Alexander Mcqueen in his early days, something that raised an eyebrow...
But in my opinion it was quite boring, and perhaps a bit of a useless fabric for garments other than Rain Macs and Umbrellas...

The Majority of PVC garments are bonded, rather than sewn to allow a certain flexibility to remain...I don't think it is Fashion, Fashion should be Wearable, to an extent.It should however ignite our imaginations and be transformative. 

This dress is the former but certainly not the latter...it creates no mask. 


Saturday

Skirt #1

Skirt #1




Skirt #1 was asymmetric constructed using run and fell seam finishes on seams a raw edge sweep and a raw edged and gathered waist band. The fabric was 100% Cotton in a pale salmon pink.


The mantra of…

‘Get it wrong to get it right
Git it right to get it wrong
Get it wrong to get it wrong
Get it right to get it right’

Is going to play a huge part of this project…
Exploration of materials is the key…
I have experience of draping and making…
From the outset I know that I am in need of acquiring more accurate and precise sewing skills (I am a sloppy sewer!)
I also want to investigate new ways of finishing and constructing…this is possible through exploring fabrics and practically tackling processes to learn from first hand…
I think my skirt is fashion  in a wearable sense…
Its flattering and easy to wear and is adaptable to day time and evening…






TRIP TO LONDON.


Selfridge's beautiful entrance patio/foyer...really sets the tone for the store...grand and inspirational...all consuming consumption...  

Some of their windows...


Oliver Rugger



ADAM ANDRASCIK





One of my favorite boutiques...BROWNS


South Molton Street




Walking Towards Bond street...



I do love Bond St for its flags and 'Haute' Jewellery houses...I do prefer Sloane st and department stores as a shoecase for the big brands...I like an atmosphere...and for me Bond street is NOT A FASHION ENVIROMENT.

It reeks of history and suggestions at a now defunct social order...I love going early in the morning, walking towards it down from regent street and onto Savile Row and seeing the sales women placing the precious pieces into the windows and the security guards in their black suits waiting to protect.  


This is, so i read, Isabella Blows (one of my muses) favourite jewellery shops. 












LOVE YVES SAINT LAURENT...menswear on 2 was closed unfortunatley....




I really appreciate Dover street Markets vision...and the brands it showcases...





The Cloth House




Fabric shops that will help build my knowledge of fabrics and my fabric file 



I think on a par with Harvey Nichols, Liberty is my Favorite department store. I love the mix of Heritage, Modernity and its 'market'y' merchendising...I also like its diverse mix of product offer...and the perfume department is like nothing on this earth...I love Frederick Malle and lIBERTY has a beautiful counter.